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This is a record of Geoff and Sandy's fantastic Italian holiday organised by EXPLORE! Worldwide Adventure Holidays. Please click here to go to the EXPLORE! website.

The main places we visited between May 29th and June 6th 2010 are included on the adjacent map and listed below. Paestum is about 40 km down the coast from Salerno.

Please click on a name below to go to pictures and stories about that place.

Please click here to see our website describing our brilliant 'Active Aracena' EXPLORE! holiday in 2008.

Please click here to visit Geoff and Sandy's other websites.

Except where otherwise stated all pictures on this website are ours and these may be freely used for any non-commercial purpose.

Sorrento Herculaneum Vesuvius Naples Pompeii Capri Paestum Amalfi The Trek Positano The Return

May 29th 2010 The journey out to Naples was uneventful apart from one embarrassing incident. At the security check Geoff was asked to remove his shoes. He got as far as undoing his laces when he was told 'not to bother' so he stumbled on through the metal detector arch trying not to fall over his trailing laces. The detector buzzed so he had to remove his belt. Now, having just lost 11 lbs on a crash diet, removing his belt resulted in his trousers falling down.

So, to the amusement of all around - especially the Gatwick security staff which had obviously targeted him - there was this seventy-year old fool stumbling over his undone laces and desperately holding his trousers up. Can't we oldies be allowed any dignity? Mind you, it could have been worse - please click here.

The flight was normal and there was no hint of the disastrous flight back a week later - but that's a story for later. During the flight Geoff spent all of the time trying to advance his digital watch by one hour; a very complicated procedure involving pressing three buttons for different lengths of time in the correct order. Trouble was Geoff couldn't remember the sequence. In fact, he is so enfeebled by age that he thinks Dementia is the name of Julius Caesar's wife...

We met the delightful Meg at Naples Airport who was to look after us for the week and a very fine job she made of this difficult task. Everything that was under her control worked perfectly.

The Hotel Margherita in SORRENTO - please click here for the hotel website - was run by a very friendly family and our room was comfortable with a large balcony where we could sit and drink beer (as seen at left) and watch the traffic pass by.

This was a drawback - the road was very noisy just outside our room although things did quieten down a lot during the evening.

On the first night we dropped off to sleep early but were awoken around midnight by a tremendous explosion. Leaping from the bed we threw open the shutters to find a magnificent fireworks display in progress on the local beach.

It appears that weddings are frequent in this part of Italy and are celebrated by waking up the entire town with massive thunderous fireworks that were almost capable of putting a small child into orbit around Mars.

The room was excellent except that our en suite was rather small - a bit like an IKEA flat packed bathroom before being assembled.

There was the obligatory foot bath which is only found in Continental hotels. As a result of the room's small size the shower cabinet consisted of a box about one foot square (I exaggerate - it must have been at least two feet square!) with a concertina door which enclosed two sides. When getting in and out there was a very real risk of snagging vital body parts in the folding mechanism.

One of our group said that they had to put their feet in the shower in order to sit on the loo!

In the evening we gathered together food from a local supermarket for a picnic lunch the following day and then went off to enjoy a group meal at 'Moonlight'; a really nice introduction to real Italian cuisine - please click here for the restaurant website.

There were fourteen in the group including Meg and we enjoyed the delights of traditional Italian cooking. Despite the seemingly vast quantities of pasta, pizzas and noodles that we ate we each only gained one kilogram over the holiday - a testament to the healthy qualities of real Italian food (as contrasted to the mass-produced pseudo-Italian rubbish served up in British supermarkets.

May 30th 2010 Off to HERCULANEUM today after a 07.00 breakfast - no time is ever wasted on an EXPLORE! holiday!

This is a remarkable Roman site.

After the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD, the town of Herculaneum was buried under approximately 20 metres (50–60 feet) of mud and ash and it lay hidden and nearly intact for more than 1600 years until it was accidentally discovered by some workers digging a well in 1709.

The above panorama shows the site. The depth of the rock-hard ejecta was level with the left-hand walkway and nothing showed above ground level.

Over the past three hundred years the site has been excavated by the tedious means of chipping away the concrete-hard layer in which it is encased.

Only 25% has so far been exposed; the remainder of the town with its buildings, artefacts and bodies still lies undisturbed under a modern housing estate seen on the right of the above picture.

The story of Herculaneum is well described here and the account of its inhabitants desperately trying to escape by boat is very moving.

In fact, so much ejecta fell that the shoreline was moved about one kilometre out to sea leaving the original shoreline with the boats far inland - hence the failure of so many inhabitants to escape by sea.

The picture at right is an impression of the last day of Herculaneum.

The picture below shows the Roman boathouses - now very far from the sea.

(The above picture and the picture below were copied from the Wikipedia Commons archive.)

File:Herculaneum Bootshaeuser.jpg

There is much to see at Herculaneum. Below left is part of a Roman boat recovered from the original shoreline and below right is one of many 'Fast Food Outlets' where workers would have gone to buy hot lunches produced in the earthenware pots.

 

VESUVIUS

This has to be a major highlight of the tour. To climb the only active volcano in mainland Europe and peer into its steaming crater whilst imagining the destruction caused over the years to the surrounding countryside and its inhabitants.

Click here for an excellent article on the volcano and its history.

This panorama shows the view as we climbed from the car-park up to the crater. The Bay of Naples lies spread out beneath us. Click here for a view of Vesuvius from space. Zoom in to see so much detail that even individual walkers can be seen on the crater rim.

If you have Google Earth installed on your computer enable the 'Terrain' layer and zoom around and into the crater in an amazing three-dimensional simulation flying around the volcano - awesome! See a screen shot below.

Above is a collage of six photographs showing the inside of File:Vesuvius1822scrope.jpgthe crater. A small amount of wispy steam was emerging from a vent but that was the only activity seen.

It has historically produced life threatening events about every 13 years but has not done so since 1944 - click here.

Subplinian eruptions have occurred about every 60 years - see a typical one at left. The last was 66 years ago which overwhelmed several villages. 

There are plans in place to evacuate 600,000 people from the area where we were holidaying - some hopes! Imagine that number of Italian drivers all trying to get through the autostrade toll gates at the same time and not having the correct Euro coins to hand over.

At least the British holidaymakers would be forming an orderly queue and waving each other on saying "NO, NO - after YOU old chap!" 

However, there is a shrine on the crater rim imploring the Virgin Mary to intercede to prevent another eruption - see picture below - so that's OK then!

(The picture at right was copied from the Wikipedia Commons archive.)

Vesuvius by night seen from Sorrento with the lights of the Naples Coastline.

May 31st 2010 We breakfasted early and set off for the Naples National Museum. Maybe not the most exciting venue unless you are excited by hundreds of ancient pots, statues and frescoes but still well worth a visit.

Above left Sandy is overwhelmed by the prodigious size of this statue and, above right, a truly remarkable model of Pompeii which we were to visit later in the day.

Geoff became emotional to see the magnificent statue of Atlas supporting the globe of the Earth because he had, in 1983, reproduced this dramatic pose as shown below right. It was now possible to compare the glorious skill of the ancient sculpture with a (relatively) modern glorious reproduction.

 

At the Naples Museum is a 'Secret Museum' containing the most erotic sculptures, frescoes and imagery found in Roman excavations. It was (unfortunately!) closed when we visited but type the keywords Naples museum secret museum into Google Images and relax and enjoy life the way the Roman did two millennia ago.

POMPEII - What a dramatic visit! The story of the overwhelming of Pompeii by Vesuvius is dramatically told by clicking here. We had not expected to be so emotionally entwined with the terror of the inhabitants as they saw the pyroclastic flow roaring down from Vesuvius to kill them.

The full horrifying eruption of Vesuvius and its destruction of Pompeii is dramatically told by clicking here.

The plaster cast of the void left after a Roman died in agony. After two millennia the body has decomposed away leaving a void which could be filled with plaster. It is believed that over one thousand bodies are still to be discovered.

A dog died in agony as the burning carbon dioxide burned and suffocated it whilst it was chained to a post.

A pregnant women laid face down as the poisonous burning gases overwhelmed her.

A Roman vainly holds his nose to try to avoid the suffocating gases.

What many tourists go to Pompeii to see are the erotic frescoes in the brothels - anyone who claims otherwise is suffering from the Pinocchio Syndrome!

These frescoes may be offensive to some viewers of this website so a few random samples from Pompeii have been put elsewhere and can be reached by clicking here - it's your choice whether you click or continue straight on with the rest of this illustrated holiday narrative. If you go to look at the frescoes you will be able to get straight back to this spot.

Pressing on with our story we see below Sandy in a typical garden of a large Roman Town House.

 

Geoff prepares to serve a large number of MacRoman Fast Food lunches to busy passing artisans.

June 1st 2010 Off to CAPRI - What a gorgeous island!

File:Capri sights.png

(The map above was copied from the Wikipedia Commons archive.)

We caught the hydrofoil to the island and then transferred to a smaller boat for a one-hour trip around the island. This was a bit choppy but well worth the experience. The coastline is rugged everywhere and the two main towns (Capri and Anacapri) are on the top of the island and reached only by funicular railway or a very winding steep road.

 

Here we see the lighthouse on the extreme south-western approaches to the island.

File:Wyspa Capri.JPG

(The picture above was copied from the Wikipedia Commons archive.)

The above picture shows the vertiginous cliffs on top of which lie the two main towns. The harbour and some scattered houses lie on the ancient scree slopes and coastline below.

File:Grotta azzurra.jpg

(The picture above was copied from the Wikipedia Commons archive.)

On the boat trip we went to the mouth of the Blue Grotto but the boat was to large to get into the grotto. Smaller boats do take tourists inside and this is what they see - click here for more information.

File:Capri skaly Faraglione.JPG

(The picture above was copied from the Wikipedia Commons archive.)

A magnificent pair of rock pinnacles. Our boat, which was of considerable size, passed through the arch. Very impressive!

Below we see the harbour from where we caught our boat.

File:Capri coastline.jpg

(The picture above was copied from the Wikipedia Commons archive.)

After our boat ride around the island we took the funicular railway to the town of Capri and looked back to see a strange sight - a cruise liner fitted with sails! This is the Wind Surf - click here for details. Geoff has read that the sails probably don't save much fuel as the ship generally travels faster than the wind - but if the punters think it's an 'Eco Cruise Liner' why disillusion them?

Capri Town is attractive and has some very pretty piazzas and alleyways. It also has a remarkable number of expensive 'Designer' shops all lined up to lure in the wealthier visitors. Sandy and Geoff walked straight past - we know our limitations!

In the afternoon Meg led us on a circular walk from Capri Town to a natural arch, a grotto and along some spectacular coastline views.

 

The view from inside a large cave.

An unusual house on a rock promontory believed to have been featured in a James Bond film.

A cooling paddle with Meg before catching the hydrofoil back to Sorrento.

On the boat from Capri - an exhausting day and below - a thirsty evening!

That will do for a starter - "Same Again!"

The weak currency is making Continental holidays rather expensive at present. The above beers were 9 Euros (£8) each and a typical evening meal with a bottle of local cheap wine was between £60 and £90.

We ate in a restaurant dedicated to Totò whose pictures were all over the walls. There was a recent picture of the owner and his staff posing with Totò's niece - clearly the highlight of that year.

When we admitted our ignorance of Totò the restaurant owner laughed and didn't believe that we had never heard of the most famous film star after John Wayne and Shrek.

File:Totò cerca pace.jpg File:Shrek.jpg File:Operation Pacific-John Wayne2.JPG

(The above pictures were copied from the Wikipedia Commons archive.)

Do you know the difference?

So, who was this extraordinarily famous Totò? It took Geoff a great deal of 'Googling' to eventually track down the elusive Totò. Please click here and here for his career summary. He made over one hundred films and was born locally in Naples.

His full real name originally was "Antonio Griffo Focas Flavio Ducas Komnenos Purpure-Born Gagliardi de Curtis of Byzantium, His Imperial Highness, Palatine Count, Knight of the Holy Roman Empire, Exarch of Ravenna, Duke of Macedonia and Illyria, Prince of Constantinople, Cilicia, Thessaly, Ponthus, Moldavia, Dardania, Peloponnesus, Count of Cyprus and Epirus, Count and Duke of Drivasto and Durazzo".

So you can see why he went under a shorter name!

And so to bed...

June 2nd 2010 Off to PAESTUM - What an amazing site! Established by the Greeks as Poseidonia in about the 7th century BC it became the Roman Paestum in 273 BC - click here for more information. The area became swampy and malarial so that nobody ventured there for nearly two thousand years and the huge city became overgrown and lost.

It was not until the mid-1700s that it was rediscovered and excavated. Only one-fifth of the city has been excavated.

In the amphitheatre Geoff is waiting for the lions to eat the Christians.

A small section of the huge fortified walls over two thousand years old.

File:The Tomb of the Diver - Paestum - Italy.JPG

(The picture above was copied from the Wikipedia Commons archive.)

A large number of tombs have been excavated and these are decorated by paintings; some rather crude and childlike but others of great artistry. The burial monument was named Tomb of the Diver after the enigmatic scene, depicted on the covering slab, of a lonely young man diving into a stream of water. It was dated to the first half of the fifth century BC (about 470 BC), the Golden Age of the Greek town.

The tomb's importance lies in being the only example of Greek painting with figured scenes dating from the Classical periods to survive in its entirety. Among the thousands of Greek tombs known from this time (roughly 700–400 BC), this is the only one to have been decorated with frescoes of human subjects.

After visiting this remarkable site and touring the museum we stuffed ourselves on magnificent ice-creams.

We were taken by coach to our second hotel -  the Hotel Amalfi (please click here for the hotel website) in the town of Amalfi.

 

 

 

Aaaaaaah - Italian Ice-cream!

June 3rd 2010 - Amalfi. What a delightful town! A grand church dominates the main piazza and the town consists mainly of tiny alleyways and steps weaving seemingly at random in all directions. Traffic is severely restricted so that it is safe to wander.

 

The cathedral dates back to the 11th century. It was the centre of two interesting events during our stay - one a wedding and the other the celebration of Corpus Christi.

For the latter there was a very long and interesting procession down the steps of the cathedral and along the main street including a wide cross-section of local dignitaries as well as children (scouts, guides, etc). Unfortunately it was too dark to take pictures.

File:Amalfimore.jpg

(The picture above was copied from the Wikipedia Commons archive.)

Amalfi town has a long and proud history - please click here for more information. Briefly, it was first mentioned in the 6th century, and soon acquired importance as a maritime power. Merchants of Amalfi were using gold coins to purchase land in the 9th century, while most of Italy worked in a barter economy. An independent republic from the seventh century until 1075, Amalfi extracted itself from Byzantine vassalage and first elected a duke in 958; it rivalled Pisa and Genoa in its domestic prosperity and maritime importance, before the rise of Venice. In spite of some devastating setbacks it had a population of some 70,000.

In 1135 and 1137, it was taken by the Pisans and rapidly declined in importance, though its maritime code, known as the Tavole Amalfitane, was recognized in the Mediterranean until 1570. A tsunami in 1343 destroyed the port and lower town and Amalfi never recovered more than local importance.

In medieval culture Amalfi was famous for its flourishing schools of law and mathematics. Flavio Gioia, who is traditionally considered the first to introduce the mariner's compass to Europe, is said to be a native of Amalfi.

At left is a typical passageway in Amalfi and the whole town is traversed by similar narrow paths.

It made it difficult to find our way around for a while as we would think that we were going towards the main street but then suddenly emerge into an enclosed courtyard.

Below we see a very nice touch - a statue dispensing Gin from one nipple and Soda from the other.

This picture well shows the precipitous nature of the town.

The 'Great Trek' we did from Amalfi took us pretty much to the summit of the mountain seen behind the town. It can be seen that the weather was not hot and sunny every day.

The Great Trek led by Meg set off to climb almost to the top of the mountains seen in the above picture. These are about 1,200 metres (3,600 feet) high at the summit. There were 720 steps in the continuous flight coming down so we assume there was a similar number going up - but it felt like a lot more.

The first stop for a breather. We are already high above Amalfi but there is a long way still to go.

 

The  view down the steps and the view up - it went on for a very long time like this.

Sandy looks thoughtfully down the steps just climbed. Still a very long way to go!

Our hotel must be down there somewhere...

 

Time for another breather and to admire the views even if they are shrouded in fine rain.

 

 

This composite of three pictures shows the path we had walked earlier stretching from the centre of the picture down towards the bottom left.

Another breather! The fine rain had eased up by now and we were heading downhill at last.

     

Having conquered the 720 steps down into the town from the end of the mountain trail we were glad to have a few beers and enjoy a delicious meal in Amalfi.

However, five stalwarts, including Meg and Sandy went for a swim in the rain on Amalfi Beach. Geoff managed to get just one picture of them as seen below.

An early night and a long sleep - the next day was a free day so there was no alarm clock set and no early breakfast.

June 4th 2010 - Positano. With a free day we decided to catch a bus along the coast to Positano and return by boat. This was a great day as Positano is an enchanting little town with much to see. The bus journey was exciting and the skill of Italian drivers to travel so recklessly fast without killing everyone has to be admired.

What a fantastic place! This composite of three pictures shows the full extent of Positano's bay.

A network of tiny passages with even tinier shops were fascinating to wander around.

There are two things of interest in the above picture - the very large cave and the fact that one of the houses is where Sophia Loren lives - but we don't know which!

On arriving back at Amalfi we noticed the time was Beer O'Clock - again! How quickly that time comes around!

Later we had a farewell excellent meal at a local family run restaurant. The few group stragglers after the meal were entertained by us with a few choruses of 'Father Abraham' and 'Climbing Up Sunshine Mountain' - two 'Hashing' drinking songs.

Our small captive audience no doubt were mentally noting to avoid any holidays that we were likely to be going on in 2011!

Our trouble is that we are teenagers trapped in pensioners' bodies. As evidence we offer a single picture taken at a party last New Year's Eve. It was bad enough for Geoff to be on Cruella De Vil's leash but to be led around a large number of Weymouth's pubs - well, is there no dignity left for a poor seventy year old in this world?

If you crave for more embarrassing pictures of us and our many strange friends then click here to see a typical 'Hashing' event and here for details of our club.

 

 

 

 

June 5th 2010 - The Return. What a day!

Meg got us all to Naples Airport in good time with the only distraction being a small lorry carrying an olive tree towards Pompeii. Why we simply didn't know.

We said our farewells, had a final picture taken with Meg and waited to be flown home. The flight was due to depart at 12.45 and, sure enough we boarded the aircraft and waited - for nearly four hours! Then we were disembarked and we waited another few hours.

EasyJet staff gave us vouchers worth 4.50 Euros to sustain us - which we exchanged for wine - and we waited some more. Then we were rushed out to collect our luggage and were taken in coaches to a Naples hotel (pictured at right - our room is marked by the arrow) arriving about 8.30 pm.

It was turning into a very long day!

There was a brief feeling of excitement when a printed sheet was given out setting out EasyJet's commitment to us - the figure of 450 Euros compensation each jumped out of the page. However, on closer reading it turned out that this could only be received if we had been delayed by an infestation of poisonous spiders on the aircraft coinciding with the celebration of Rosh Hashanah in Tehran Airport departure lounge in 2007.

Oh well, forget that then!

At 9.15 pm we all gathered in a dining room at the hotel and were provided with a snack meal and a bottle of wine between two of us courtesy of EasyJet - 'Chateau Piss du Chat 2009' - a somewhat reserved but yet presumptuous red with strong flavours of the slums which we overlooked from our bedroom window.

After a very brief nap we were out again at 04.30 am (UK time) when we were loaded onto coaches for the ride back to Naples Airport.

We learned that what had been thought to be an engine failure was in fact a faulty warning bulb on the dashboard! Having replaced the bulb overnight, we finally took off to great cheering and applause (the Brits really do have a great sense of humour in the face of adversity) and landed at Gatwick about seventeen hours late.

Despite this last minute amusement this was a Really Great Holiday - and many thanks to Explore!, Meg and our fellow travellers for making it so! We can't wait to browse the Explore! 2011 catalogue.

And Finally...

                                        ...and for no reason other than they make us laugh, here are some letters from VIZ

I just saw a van drive by with the company name 'Seafood Solutions'. I must admit, I didn't know seafood was a problem.

Like the Queen Mum, my grandfather was a frequent visitor to the East End during the dark days of the blitz, but he was never hailed as a hero by the people of London. That's because he flew Heinkel bombers for the Luftwaffe.

We should remember the tremendous contribution of the Queen Mother to the war effort. As the BBC pointed out, she 'bravely remained in London beside her husband' during the war. This contrasts sharply with the actions of my grandfather who, on the declaration of war, immediately left his wife and children and p*ssed off - first to France, then North Africa, Italy, France (again) and finally Germany. The shame will always be with us.

I'm beginning to think there may be something in this climate change after all. Four months ago it was very cold and now it's quite warm.

A woman whose daughter was hospitalised in a US tornado told ITV News that 'God would make her better.' Presumably, that's a different God from the one that almost killed her with a tornado.

'She can dish it out, but she cannot take it', I once heard someone say of me. And it's true - I'm a school dinner lady and I'm allergic to mashed potatoes.

I heard on the news that the January storms had cost this country a billion pounds. What an utter waste of money. If anything, they did more harm than good.

Yesterday I received an e-mail from a bored housewife looking for some action. Eager to please the young lady I sent her my ironing. That should keep her quiet for a while.

This new police knife amnesty is a bloody nightmare. I dutifully handed all my knives in and now I've got nothing to eat my dinner with.

I'm a terrorist, and when ID cards come into force I will probably employ great cunning and not declare that as my job. I'll probably say I'm a grocer or something.

Why don't NHS bosses start hiring obsessive compulsives as nurses? Their attention to hygiene and constant hand washing would see an end to MRSA outbreaks in no time.

'Alton Towers - Where the magic never ends', or so the commercial says. Imagine my disappointment when it closed at 7.30.

'Tonight there's gonna be a jailbreak', sang Thin Lizzy in 1976, 'somewhere in this town'. Well, I'm guessing it's going to be at the prison.

The person who coined the phrase 'as different as chalk and cheese' obviously hadn't tasted Kwik Save's cheddar.

They say football is a game of two halves. Not for me it isn't. I regularly down eight or nine pints whilst watching a live game on Sky TV in my local.

If smoking is bad for you, how come it cures Salmon?

They say good manners cost you nothing. B*llocks. I sent my daughter to finishing school and it cost me twenty bloody grand.

If, as Freddie Mercury claimed, fat bottomed girls make the rocking world go round, isn't it about time that the city of Derby received some recognition for its contribution to astrophysics?

I would just like to say a big thank you to all those wonderful young people who stand on motorway slip roads in all weathers holding up boards telling us motorists where they lead to.G

Last week I attended an AA meeting, and to my horror, each person present stood up and openly admitted to being an alcoholic. I'm not having these boastful drunkards repairing my car. I can only hope the RAC have more responsible employees.

I am married to a Taiwanese lady, and people often ask me if she was a mail-order bride. I find this very insensitive. The Royal Mail loses around 2 million letters and parcels each year, and to suggest that I would trust the delivery of my wife to them is insulting in the extreme. She was sent by DHL next day delivery.

On the BBC website, I read with interest that some scientists in Australia have discovered the smallest fish known to exist. They've obviously never been to the Britannia Chippy on the Gloucester Road.

I was being chased by a police dog last week, and made the mistake of trying to escape through a little tunnel, over a see-saw and through a hoop of fire. It finally caught me as I was weaving in and out of some sticks.

These so-called speed bumps are a joke. If anything, they slow you down.

I work in a call centre in Norwich and we've just been told our jobs are moving to India. I'm so excited! I've always wanted to visit India and with the salary they pay me I'll be able to live like a Maharaja over there. Well done Aviva, keep up the good work.

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